Kriti is Pretty Awesome...and Old!

Sunday, July 14, 2013:
Another perfect day in paradise....Today, feeling rested and rejuvenated, we set out on an archeological tour. Coffee and left over bread with breakfast cereal bars, OJ and a banana at our home base got us on the road after 9am. The drive through the mountains was spectacular. They are craggy, steep and some are higher than any in the Smokeys, if that gives you some perspective.

We headed generally east to our first stop at the ruins and excavation at Phaestos, a well-organized culture that thrived here  more than 3,500 years  ago. That pre-dates classical Greece by at least 1,000 years! That's old, friends....

Ever heard of the Phaestos disk? t's a CD-sized clay disk with a kind of hieroglyphic symbols known as Linear A, which has yet to be deciphered. Well, I am now proud owner of a set of six replica coasters! :) This culture existed in the same time period as the better known Minoan culture at Knossos, which we visited later in the day.

The mythology about the half man/half bull Minataur is Minoan. Thesius was the hero from Athens who came and slew the beast. The Phaestos site is much less reconstructed than the Knossos palace site, which was excavated and embellished (with some controversy) by Sir Arthur Evans in the first half of the 20th Century. In between stops at the two sites, we went to the north coast town of Heraklean to view artifacts, jewelry, fresco fragments, and sculpture from these and other Cretan dynasties.

The original Phaestos disk is in this museum along with original pieces retrieved from the Knossos palace excavation near Heraklean, several of which are very recognizable. It worked out very well the order in which we made these three visits.  The Knossos site had enough reconstruction using some modern material (like concrete in place of wood) to really give one a clearer understanding about the palace construction and how the various rooms and chambers were used.

Having just viewed the original pieces at the museum, replica frescoes and some artifacts were placed in their original locations at the excavation site.  We saw the oldest known throne in European history, still in situ at Knossos. It was carved from a solid piece of alabaster some 4,000 years ago, give or take a few hundred years.

What we saw at the museum and read about in our guide book greatly enhanced our appreciation of the dig site. That plus we paid to have a local guide take us through the Knossos site. Her name was Irini, which means 'peace' in Greek, she pointed out. The Minoan were very advanced with engineered plumbing and infrastructure. Fresh water was  piped in from a  nearby mountain through clay pipes, some  of which still remain. Construction techniques showed great planning and execution. Parts of the palace were up to five stories or levels and natural light was accommodated by construction of ceiling openings and shafts, at the bottom of which was a system of drainage pipes to carry off the rain water. They also had indoor toilets and separate sewage disposal system. (David would have enjoyed seeing all of this.)

The Phaestos and Knossos sites were unfortified, indicating peaceful communities that engaged in trade. There are several other excavation sites on the island of similar cultures of the same time period (1,400 BC and older). The cataclysmic eruption of Thera on the nearby island of Santorini, literally buried these civilizations and likely the vast majority of the population.
It was a rather long day in the car, but concluded peacefully with another halcyon evening under the stars...the same stars observed by the ancients.
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Sea, Sand, Sunset, Stars

Saturday, July 13, 2013
I love waking up with a view of the sea, sparrows chirping and always, always a breeze.

On this day we kicked back and set a relaxed leisurely pace. Restaurants do not open here in tiny Myrthios until 10:30.  Without planning ahead we had to forego coffee until then. We walked across the street and, per usual, dined al fresco with a view of the sea at the Dionyssis Cafe. In lieu of typical breakfast food (not offered on the menu) we ordered spinach pie, which came as several small spinach-filled popovers....very tasty.

We decided to drive down the mountain to Plakias, the seaside village below us. We spent a good portion of the day on the sand beach.

We were able to find two beach umbrellas and 4 lounge chairs next to each other. Will I return home with a fabulous Mediterranean tan? Not likely...I prefer the shade here. I haven't yet even put on a swimsuit this trip.

I did take Sofie wading in the surf until Carol and Sofie's parents could take her out farther.  She squealed when the cool water caressed her little body, but soon she was happily splashing around. I have not detected any other Americans around here. The island attracts a lot of Germans, Italians, Scandinavians, French, Brits and Aussies. Fortunately, English seems to be widely spoken. Carol and I have enjoyed playing "name that country" especially as we dine or when we were sunning on the beach. I wonder how our motley group is perceived by others? I found it a bit disconcerting that we could hear conversations around us in other languages unknown to us, and guessing that these foreigners are able to eavesdrop on our conversations. I suspect we might as well be carrying a large US flag!

After beach time, we walked across the street to a taverna/sports bar with a tv showing a cricket match between the Aussies and Brits. A couple of guys we determined to be Aussies were focused on the action and seemed pleased when their team won. I don't have a clue about the rules, but it was mildly interesting to watch as we waited for our food to be served.  I'm not going to say 'al fresco' anymore, by the way.... :)

We did a little shopping (bought coffee) and headed back up the mountain to our retreat. I spent the rest of the evening on the balcony, happily writing, blogging and mostly gazing peacefully at the picture postcard image before me. Sunset is so perfect it seems unreal like its been photo-shopped. Late evenings are spectacular with a quarter moon waxing not so bright as to overwhelm the myriad stars. I can't remember the last time I saw this array of constellations (facing south) and best of all, when the moon sets, the cloudy haze of the Milky Way galaxy is plain to see. Images like these are what will stick in my memory. Peace out....
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Bye-bye boat; Hello Crete!

Another day, another port; this time Souda near Chania (the 'C' is silent) a town on the north coast of Crete, the largest Greek island due north of Libya.

Souda Port, Crete

This time we disembark for good.  Aron had arranged for a "full size" rental car and at the appointed hour, the car company rep stood at the gate holding a sign with Aron's misspelled name. He led us to our 4-door Ford Focus (not our definition of "full size"). We were dubious that four adults and a child in a car seat would fit with all our luggage, but the man was a skillful packer and made it all fit!  Some doofus in our group (who shall again remain nameless) had forgotten to remove all the contents of a drawer in her cabin where all the electronic gear, cords, batteries and bluetooth keyboard had been stashed.  So there was a delay as we petitioned the ship's security to send staff to retrieve the gear.  The doofus hairbrain [*sheepish grin*] expressed relief that at least she realized her oversight before we had driven away from the ship or, God forbid, the ship had sailed away! Perish the thought.

It was after 10 when we finally drove away, headed toward the west coast town of Elafonisi, a popular beach resort area. The drive along the north coast was easy, although there were only occasional scenic vistas of the shoreline. Like most major highways in our country, the landscape was dotted with mundane buildings and houses, not the picturesque kind featured on postcards.  This is Greece and there is an economic crisis ongoing, which was in evidence by many half constructed, but abandoned buildings. Without its tourism and export of olive oil, things would really be bad.  We would discover later that this area along the north coast was the least appealing of what we saw.  Looking at the interior of the island shows dramatic scenery: incredibly rocky,  mountainous and arid landscape, similar to parts of the American southwest.

After we left the main coastal highway, we drove along winding, steep and narrow (down to one lane in spots) roads, which made us appreciate that we were not in a full-size American car!  Along this interior route, we found ourselves sandwiched between a high bluff and a deep canyon with sheer cliffs and craggy outcroppings. Photos really can't do justice to this landscape, but I captured countless images anyway.

By 2 o'clock we had made our way to the west coast where we dined al fresco (our standard) at a hillside cafe overlooking the beach, a very popular spot--too popular for my taste.

 

After our Greek lunch, we drove to the beach area, parked and walked to the edge of the crystal clear pale bluegreen water at the quieter end of the sand beach. The water was chillier than I expected, but plenty of people were swimming and frolicking in it. We saw a few people on sail boards, but virtually no power boats.

 

Soon it was time to make our way to the south side of the island to the village of Myrthios where our rental rooms with a view were located.  Taking the slower, scenic interior route, it took several hours to traverse the mountains with photo op pauses along the way.

 

 It was after six before we were settled in our hillside retreat with the million dollar view overlooking the bleached town of Plakias on a quiet cove of the Libyan Sea. The scenic vista was even more spectacular than advertised on the website. I could happily sit here gazing at the sea for the rest of our stay! Perfect weather, constant breezes and altogether relaxing and refreshing. Ahhh...this is living!

Around 8:30 in the evening, we walked a hundred yards or so up the road to the sound of  Greek balalaika, guitars and voices emanating from a popular eatery, the Panorama Taverna.

There we spent a memorable evening with a mix of locals and foreigners enjoying the festivities that included impromptu dancing a la Zorba the Greek: a set of steps and kicks moving in a line with arms extended clasping shoulders or waist of the ones dancing next to you. It was country music and line dancing with a Greek twist! Opa!  I so wanted to get up and join the line, but did not after a group of German tourists tried and mostly embarrassed themselves breaking a glass in the process.

A satisfying feast and into our second bottle of Greek wine, the manager brought out a medium cruet of Raki, a local beverage similar to Ouzo, but with a milder, slightly less licorice flavor.  Aron and Hapny left with Sofie after 10:30, but Carol and I stayed past midnight until the Raki was all gone! Amazingly, the 4 member band played nonstop for at least four hours that we know of! (Are you seeing this Frank and Beverly?) We  finally cashed in around 12:30, but the band was still going strong when we left. I'm happy I had presence of mind (something I seem to lack recently) to record some sound and video of the occasion. This night will be on the highlight reel of this vacation!

(This is not the best of the two videos, but it is shorter and not too big. I shot this while we were waiting to be seated. This is before the dancing began....)

One last event for me happened after everyone in our household was asleep.  I realized my shoulder bag with all its precious contents was missing! Oh, the horror!  I slipped out after 1 am and dashed up the hill to the taverna hoping the place would still be open and my bag still there.  In it was my passport, driver's license, three credit cards and all my cash ($300+)! Yes! The taverna was still open, but the music had stopped and the band members were enjoying their meal with friends. The manager and wait staff were also there, but my bag was no where to be found! This was a devastating turn of events. Dejected, I returned to our quarters with a heavy heart dreading the prospect of spoiling the rest of our vacation!  Then, voila!!  I found the bag, which I had inadvertently stashed in the bathroom when Carol and I returned earlier from the taverna. I was, afterall, a little fuzzy from all the wine and Raki....O frabjous day!  I was saved and so was our trip!  I must find a way to contain these doofus tendencies!  Hoping for the best!
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Bible History and Clever Turks at the Bazaar

Thursday, July 11, 2013:
Our ship made port in Kusadasi, Turkey early morning on Thursday. Already docked was a sleek dark blue yacht.

Soon the dock saw arrival of the Semester at Sea floating university ship and a second cruise ship, Silversea. So, Kusadasi was teaming with tourists as were the archeological sights we visited. At 9:30 we met our tour guide Fehmi, a well-educated, worldly and glib former English teacher, and we boarded our luxury BMW bus with 8 others from our ship.

Church that the Disciple John established

Less than an hour later we arrived at the entrance to the excavation sight at Ephesus. Enroute, we passed by the one remaining column of the Temple of Diana, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The top of the column was home to a nesting pair of storks. 

We also had photo op pauses at the ruins of the church of St. John, one of the twelve apostles who lived and preached in the area in the first century AD. Jesus Christ, before his crucifixion, had asked John to take care of his Mother Mary, which is circumstantial evidence for the belief that Mary spent her last years at Ephesus. She died at age 64, or so it is believed. John died a natural death at age 90, a remarkable feat given that the average lifespan in those days was less than 30. Our tour was a half day and unfortunately did not allow time to visit the house of Mary. We did, however, have a photo op pause at a large gilt statue of Mary on a hillside overlooking Ephesus.



In ancient times, this city was the "center of the universe,"  according to Fehmi, with a population exceeding 10,000 at its apex. It was a bustling port on the Aegean Sea fed by the river Meander. Eventually the sea receded and the silt deposited by the river caused the area to become marshy and a breeding ground for mosquito borne malaria and other diseases. Earthquakes also contributed to the structural collapse and over time the entire city disappeared under ground. An Austrian scholar rediscovered the city in 1860 and excavation has continued since. Still only 10 % of the site has been uncovered and partially reconstructed.  

Of particular note are two amphitheaters, the library of Celsus, Hadrian's Temple and Trajan's arch. The larger amphitheater, with seating capacity of 20-24,000, was where the apostle Paul preached. He, of course, authored some of the most important books of the New Testament, including his letter to the Ephesians. All in all, this was a very educational and enjoyable tour despite being a very hot July day.

We boarded our bus for the ride back to Kusadasi where we stopped at the shopping district near our ship. Our guide ushered us into a carpet shop for an informative and entertaining presentation on rug making by Mousafah, the man in charge (the owner presumably). We saw how silkworm cocoons are boiled and then brushed to coax the release of a fiber that can be spooled out to the distance of more than a half mile.

 

We also observed a woman sitting at a loom weaving a rug with hand movements quicker than your eyes could follow. In slow motion she demonstrated the double knot technique that, according to Mousafah, make Turkish rugs "the best in the vorld [sic]."

We were shown many beautiful rugs and taught how to recognize highest quality in rugs woven from silk, wool (cashmere and angora), and cotton in some combination. We were served our drink of choice by our gracious host along with bread. I chose wine and so, succumbed to the persuasive tactics of the Turkish rug sales team. I did bargain down the price and will receive my 4' by 6' crimson wool on wool beauty in a few weeks (shipping included in the price). It is guaranteed for a hundred years and if it fades or shows wear I can return it after that. *wink* I wasn't planning to purchase a rug, but I am pleased to be in possession of this quality souvenir from this most memorable trip.

After that purchase, I was pretty much done shopping, which made it easier to deflect the aggressive sales tactics of the various shop owners as Carol and I ran the gauntlet through the bazaar.

Speaking of Turkish salesmanship, I must say we got a kick when we saw one vendor advertise in a sign outside his shop, "Genuine Fake Watches." That might be the best photo of the day!

After adventures at the bazaar, Carol and I enjoyed a refreshing stop at a dockside cafe and then returned to the ship mid afternoon well before the posted deadline.

 This was our last evening on board and we enjoyed a final excellent dinner in the Coppelia dining room, to which we were assigned. We bid a farewell to our personal wait staff, Savio (from India) and Anthony (from the Philippines). All the ship's personnel wore nametags that listed country of origin. All were friendly and we encountered staff from at least 8 or 10 different countries. The ship was a floating United Nations. Most ship passengers were European, with a sprinkling of families from many other places. After dinner, we enjoyed 9 holes of miniature golf on the stern of deck 13, which was windy. I should like to point out that I made eagle on a par 3 hole. Just sayin'....
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