Postscript: A Feast for the Senses

[I asked Carol to write about the sensory delights of our trip since she is a foodie, an herbalist, and keenly knowledgeable about flowering plants and trees.  We were fortunate to have her with us for these and many other reasons.  The following is part one of her submission. Hoping to get part two....] 

Everywhere on our trip there were beautiful sights, from the broad vistas to the smallest details, and much of that has been described.  But, of course, there were also the sounds, and the smells, and the tastes.  We have not written as much of the tastes of our trip.  This post will remedy that.

This is where we dined in Positano!

The way we ate – al fresco.  Whenever there was an opportunity, we ate outdoors.  In Rome it was sitting at tables pulled out every morning and balanced on cobbled streets.  There, the smell of delicious food would mix with exhaust from motor bikes, and the sounds of chatter and laughter blended with the mechanics of the city at work and play. On the Amalfi Coast, we sat under an arbor of bougainvillea on a porch perched over the cliffs, smelling the sweet scents of the flowers, and the salt air.  In Crete it was easy to find a covered porch with a view, a terrace, or a spot on the street.  Food just tastes better when consumed outdoors.

We also tried to make dining choices that focused on local food culture as much as possible.  Even as the world shrinks and international cuisines are available everywhere, differences in culinary culture still make travel exciting and full of variety.  In Rome that meant dining late with antipasto, good wine, and simple Roman food. 






There were plenty of pasta and pizza choices, of course, but all were plainer and simpler than versions from other parts of Italy, or the more Americanized dishes we know at home.  It also meant leisurely breakfasts with fresh breads and pastries, wonderful cheeses and meats, hard-boiled eggs, fruit and juice. 
  The coffee – delicious, though not provided in the quantities to which most Americans are accustomed.  No vente coffees here, no “bottomless cup” refills.  Ordering an Americano coffee yields a civilized 6 oz cup of individually produced espresso, diluted with water but still with its wonderful crema.  Ordering “filter coffee” when it was available, did not generally yield as good a cup of coffee.  When it comes to coffee, I appreciate quality.  However, I have to admit that I have a fondness for quantity, too.  One of the treats on the cruise ship was the full pot of good coffee that was delivered to the cabin every morning.  Royal Caribbean understands American tastes!

Our time in Crete provided wonderful culinary experiences.  I can say with some authority that Crete has not recently jumped on the local food movement.  It appears that it has been a way of life forever.  What we ate was also what we saw growing and being produced all over the island.  This was true of crops, herbs, and animals.

First and foremost – the olives and olive oil. The landscape was covered with olive trees of all sizes and ages.  There were planted orchards, but also just trees growing everywhere on mountain slopes, in valleys, in town and in the country.  Olive trees provide a distinctive sage green color to the dry and craggy landscape of Crete.  Regularly along the roads there were stands set up to sell olive oil, honey, and raki.  Every meal began with fresh bread served with olive oil, and ended with a cruet of raki and tiny shot glasses.  Ledges along the hills were often filled with rows of beehives for the bees that are critical to pollinating crops and to producing sweetly scented honey.

The wine – from Crete.  Every restaurant serves “barrel wine”.  Served by the glass, or from a half or full liter pitcher, they may well be served right from the barrel because they are so local – no need to bottle.   The same is true for the raki, distilled from the grape stems and hulls left over from wine production.  Unlike the strong raki, Cretan wines tend to be light, good for a hot climate.

The cheese – feta, feta, feta, with a healthy dose of mizithra.  Fresh soft cheeses from ewes and goats.  Sheep and goats were a part of the landscape in Crete, and donate to the food scene.  Generous helpings of cheese are a part of Greek and Cretan salads, beautifully baked casseroles of local eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, and other produce.   The yogurt was another gift.  Fresh, tart, unadulterated.  It is the main ingredient in Tazatziki, the dip made with garlic and cucumber.

We ate lots of cucumber and fresh flavorful tomatoes.  They frequently came in salads that also included olives, capers, artichoke, boiled potatoes, and purple onions.

Every menu included “stuffed wine leaves”, fresh local fish on the grill, spinach pies (which make a great breakfast), as well as moussaka and a variety of grilled and stewed fish or meats: lamb, goat, rabbit, and pork.  One real treat for me was stuffed zucchini flowers.  Yum!  Zucchini flowers are picked in the early morning, before they fully open.  Herbs and rice are tucked inside and the neat little pockets are fried and served with sour cream.

Much of what we ate on Crete could be characterized as “home cooking” – fresh ingredients, honestly prepared.  Not fussy or showy, just delicious.  A key to this food is the seasonings and herbs that are used.  That brings us to the flora of the Mediterranean.  I’ll tell you about that part of the feast next.

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